AMW Trip Reports
Iran and East Turkey - R1100GS

Who Margus Sootla aka tsiklonaut ~ email ~ website
ProfessionStudent IT
Born 1981Nationality Estonian
Previous travel experienceMultiple times Europe
Previous bike travels17 countries in Europe
This tripExpedition Iran and East Turkey
Departure dateAugust 2005
Number in groupTwo up with one bike
Trip duration5 weeks
Distance covered17 200 kilometres
Cost of trip (not incl. bike)
Best dayCrossing Dasht-e-Kavir desert, with more than 40 degrees Celsius heat, taking part in nomad's wedding in the desert side
Worst/ hardest dayCold and rain in Greece, got sick
Favourite placeEsfahan & Yazd cities, Dast-e-Kavir separated desert mountain-chain
Biggest headacheOverheated rear tire that was about to crack
Biggest mistakeSpeeding too much on +40C and while sun had heated tarmac up to boiling temperature and it was devastating to rear tire
Most pleasant surpriseBMW was extremely reliable to all this kicking it took, it didn't miss any beat while we had to travel fast (mostly 700-900km per day) on potholed Asian roads and gravel
Any illnessFever in Greece and Italy
Other trips plannedToo many plans
One travel tipTake the bike you love very much riding, then it'll be a real dream trip!
Bike ModelBMW R1100GS
Age/ mileage on departure1998 42,000km
Modifications41 litres tank, bar risers, engine guards, rear frame reinforcement, CAT protection, headlight protection, rallye hand protectors, windscreen spoiler, mudguard extension, all was needed
Mods you wish you'd doneReplacing rear shock with ?hlins with stiffer spring
Type of baggageCaja Sahel aluminium panniers 41+43L, 45L TT tankbag with side pockets, 90L luggage roll on rear
Tyres usedHeidenau K60 two pairs of rear, third pair was Mezeler Tourance rear Only one pair of front
Number of punctures2 on Tourances, Heidenau rear overheated in Iran speeding 130-160kph on mountain roads and cracked
Bike's weak pointStock rear shock bit weak for serious two up trailing on potholes
Bike's strong pointeverything you can imagine on this type of touring
Bike problemsNone And that without any maintenance on it, only kicking it!
Number of accidentsABS and telelever saved us crashing 4 (!) times, many falls on slow speeds
Same bike again?Absolutely
One biking tipJust do it