AMW Trip Reports
Central Asia and the Pamir Highway - BMW1150

Who Neil ~ email
ProfessionWeb Designer
Born 1970Nationality British
Previous travel experienceSome, travelled for a year around the Middle East and North Africa in my 20's.
Previous bike travelsNumerous UK and Western European jaunts
This tripCentral Asia and the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan.
Departure dateMay 06
Number in group2
Trip duration3 months
Distance coveredapprox 12000 miles
Cost of trip (not incl. bike)approx ?3000
Best dayLoads: Osh bazaar, in all fact all of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, The Pamir Highway, a homestay in Kalai Hussein.
Worst/ hardest dayFear of police in Russia, food poisoning on the way to Tajikistan.
Favourite placeKyrgyzstan is very beautiful, lake Issy Kol? Pamir Highway is incredible.
Biggest headacheNone really. Bikes created much attention everywhere which was sometimes nice, sometimes a difficult. Ah! and getting the ferry from Turkmenbashi to Baku in Azerbaijan - nightmare!
Biggest mistakeNothing major - should've put new fork seals in before I left.
Most pleasant surpriseHospitality of people in Central Asia. Condition of Pamir Highway.
Any illnessFood poisoning - both of us.
Other trips plannedSomewhere cold.
One travel tipTake everything you've read about your planned route with a pinch of salt.
Bike ModelBMW R1150GS
Age/ mileage on departure'02 model, 36000 miles
ModificationsOver the years, uprated battery, Ohlins on the back, louder horn, fuel filter outside of tank, cat removed, cam chain tensioner upgraded... few other bits and bobs.
Mods you wish you'd doneOhlins on the front perhaps, none really.
Type of baggageStock BM plastic panniers.
Tyres usedMetzeler Tourance, Cont TKC80s
Number of puncturesOnly 1!
Bike's weak pointWeight, not that great off-road.
Bike's strong pointComfort, it will go just about anywhere.
Bike problems2 x fork seals, rear light cluster
Number of accidents1
Same bike again?Depends on type of trip. For this one, possibly not.
One biking tipOne word - preparation.