Overlander's Handbook
Trip Reports

UK to India ~ VW T5 campervan

Who Helen Simpson and Michael Broadwith ~ email ~ website
ProfessionLawyer and Teacher
Born 1977Nationality British
Previous travel experienceBackpacking around Central and South America Australia and New Zealand (Helen); lots of European travel (both); leading walking trips for students to Spain and Central America (Michael); but no previous major overland trips for either of us.
This tripIn a VW campervan, travelling overland from the UK to the southern tip of India and back
Departure dateMarch 2007
Number in group2
Trip durationJust under 12 months
Distance coveredApprox 27000 miles
Cost of trip (not incl. vehicle)-
Best dayToo many to choose from... perhaps camping at Fairy Meadow (off the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan) under the shadow of Nanga Parbat might just win.
Worst/ hardest dayRealising that we were stranded on the Tajik-Afghan border with a mechanical failure; no phone reception; a filthy water supply; and no suitable mechanic for several hundred kilometres.
Favourite placeThe Badakhshan region of Tajikistan
Biggest headachePicking up particularly dodgy diesel in Khorog (Tajikistan), resulting in mechanical failure and being stranded.
Wish I hadn'tPaid a $10 "settlement" to a dodgy Russian policeman (one of 15 waiting on the same roundabout to make their bribe money for the day) for a supposedly illegal but entirely fictitious overtaking manoeuvre... it still gauls me as it was the only time ...
Most pleasant surpriseThat the widespread scaremongering is just that. We were told that we were mad for going to some of the places we visited, but we had nothing stolen (actually not quite true, someone stole a filthy bit of carpet from us in Kyrgyzstan once but gave it back
Any illnessWe were remarkably healthy except for one-off eye infections
Other trips plannedNone as yet (focusing on a new baby at the moment)... but there will be in due course!
One overlanding tipWhen crossing borders in far flung lands or encountering corrupt officials at traffic check points, ignorance can be a wonderful thing. You need to judge each situation and react appropriately, but often you can just politely play dumb and pretend ...
Type of VehicleVW T5 campervan
Age/ mileage on departure2006 reg; abut 10,000 miles
ModificationsWe tinted the windows in a pretty dark shade for privacy and security; added water tanks, fuel tanks, camping shower, mossie nets on the windows; and fitted off-road tyres.
Most useful accessoryA very loud horn
Mods you wish you'd doneRemoving the dreaded diesel particulate filter
Tyres usedMichelin Agilis 81 tyres (zero punctures)
Number of punctures
Vehicle's weak pointNot being 4 x 4 (though it wasn't any where near as much of a weak point as we had feared)
Vehicle's strong pointRugged, reliable and comfortable
Vehicle problemsOne: we never want to hear the words
Same vehicle again?Every time... we didn't christen it the Van of Dreams for nothing
One driving tipNever believe maps outside the so-called "western" world... what looks like a motorway may well be a near non-existent track and what looks like a city may well be a hamlet... always work on the basis that you may find yourself without the fuel or food.